It’s easy to overlook the innumerable laps of luxury and inviting vistas that the 155,813 square miles of California has to offer. Even among Southern Californians, the cornucopia of coastal retreats within the state’s lower-half region, boasting a respite from life’s rigors, may shroud the fact that there are inimitable gems up north which can be stayed at, enjoyed, and function as sources of replenishment over the course of a mere weekend.
“North” is a relative term, too, though in this case it doesn’t suggest Northern California, which is understandably elusive for being one too many miles out of reach, but rather Central CA. And chief among the latter territory’s cities is Monterey, a placid escape from the hustle, bustle, and cacophonous din of any major metropolis. If one were to zoom out from the overarching Monterey Peninsula, which is roughly shaped like the head of a short-snouted seahorse, then Monterey (and Monterey Bay) would be spotted on its nape.
Two preeminent places to relax at in Monterey happen to be sumptuous hotel and spa destinations: Portola Hotel & Spa and Monterey Plaza Hotel & Spa. Both advertise a lavishness and deliver with not just oceanfront panoramas and enveloping air currents, but they enhance the beauty and experience of the temperate area with immaculate rooms, sundry amenities, delectable dining, and proximal access to shops and attractions like the esteemed Monterey Bay Aquarium.
Portola Hotel & Spa at Monterey Bay
Formerly a Doubletree property, the AAA Four Diamond-rated Portola Hotel & Spa is independently owned and operated by a consummate staff who do more than just act cordially toward guests; they ensure that individuals passing through each of the seven floors, including promenading couples on vacation, those primed to bid on exclusive automobiles during Sotheby’s sponsored Car Week festivities, and even those en route to the adjoined, city-owned Monterey Conference Center feel unanimously welcomed and at home.
The Portola Hotel impresses at first sight with its decorative crown wreath water fountain in the center of its outward-facing circular driveway, which is situated across from its guest parking lot. Upon entering the building, the Venture Gallery will charmingly divert attention as will the mini library. But where guests are really bowled over is with the 12 live-and-in-person, lobby-situated ficus trees, the branches of which support ornamental black lanterns. The entire scene is tantamount to an indoor arboretum, or greenhouse, where through a clear gridded ceiling, sun rays nourish the lobby’s oxygen-producing sentinels just as a hidden drip system feeds them below.
The mechanism by which water is absorbed into the trees’ roots is emblematic of the ingenious and environmentally conscious measures Portola Hotel has undertaken to be suitably recognized as the central coast’s first LEED, or Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design, certified hotel. Efficiency is paramount, and it is moreover evinced through a weather-controlled drip irrigation system surrounding the edifice, the bathrooms and showers being low flow despite seeming bountiful and, most notably, the production of hot water through a combination of heat and power –- termed cogeneration — which concurrently aids in the electrical inputs running the hotel.
The lobby, in addition, houses Jack’s Monterey restaurant, notable for its wood-paneled rectangular-framed bar, swanky leather lounge and glass-barriered fireplace, with the main section shaded by the august trees. If visitors aren’t imbibing a cocktail or two (ambitious adult-beverage connoisseurs should try Karl’s Billionaire Margarita, a refreshingly citrus Patrón-fueled thrill, or the tantalizingly Tropical Rita, an exotic tequila-infused romp), then a thoroughly rewarding breakfast to kickstart one’s day is a must before embarking on an itinerary of activities or simply choosing to lay out al fresco, not dissimilar from the hordes of sea lions who serenade passersby at Fisherman’s Shoreline Park.
Some of Jack’s breakfast options, which awe visually and satisfy gustatorily, are the Cinnamon French Toast, Monterey Classic Eggs Benedict, and Huevos Rancheros. Sweet-toothed customers will find fulfillment with the berry-adorned, cinnamon-abundant confection; those who desire a classic morning meal will holler approvingly when tasting the eggs Benedict’s Hollandaise sauce, and the more adventuresome might choose the third option — a can’t-miss Latin dish which enchants with its crispy corn tortilla bearing melt-in-your-mouth eggs and a salsa verde packing a flavorful kick.
The Portola establishment also lays claim to Monterey’s first-ever brewery: Peter B’s Brewpub, which opened in 1996 and is scheduled for a renovation in early 2025 following the NFL’s season. Guests who may not necessarily be inclined to order a beer have the Old Fisherman’s Wharf available to them within walking distance just beyond the back of the premises where a procession of candy shops, Monterey-commemorative merch stores, ample seafood restaurants, and whale-watching businesses await.
In certain rooms along the property’s outer edge, the wharf colors a picturesque view from guests’ balconies where an amalgam of boats and the crystal blue water instill a sense of tranquility (opposite the wharf is Old Monterey which has its fair share of culinary treats and entertainment).
Inside the rooms, Portola’s reputation as a hospitality trailblazer precedes any overnight experience with the promise of a restful night, replete with refreshing air-conditioning (although opening the window shutters and inviting the Bay breeze will match if not exceed the AC’s yields), a Keurig coffee machine (with K-Cup pods), upholstered chairs or a sleeper couch to recline in, a chic widescreen TV, velvety robes, and same-day laundry and dry-cleaning services. Visitors hankering for a pampering might up the ante with five-star spa treatment by going solo or as a pair.
Not to mention, with a generous noon checkout time, sleeping in a little longer is encouraged, guaranteeing a relaxed and serene exit through the reposefully blue-carpeted hallways when, by stay’s end, the rejuvenating powers of both Portola Hotel and the Pacific Ocean will have had an inevitably zestful effect.
Monterey Plaza Hotel & Spa
Situated on the historical and culturally significant Cannery Row, which legendary American author John Steinbeck indirectly dubbed with his 1945 novel, the Monterey Plaza Hotel & Spa, a highly acclaimed Four Diamond accommodation of its own, beckons with its glitzy valet entrance and the glistening wood sheen of its Monterey Bay-bordering lobby.
Opulent, plush, and majestic are but a few words to describe the grandeur that suffuses the senses of guests who step into the sweeping lobby where overhead chandeliers resplendently reflect the aqua-azure glimmers of the oceanic horizon. On one side the front-desk personnel smile and, across from them, another willing and gracious employee occupies the concierge station. The depths of the lobby reveal a classy illustration: a bar, leather and sofa chairs, cozy couches, a calming fireplace, a regal grand piano (the predominant instrument of choice for daily live music), and broad windows looking into the soul of the sea.
An open stairwell, consisting of dark blue and grey carpet runner-blanketed steps, descends just below into the lower lobby which opens out to a swath of brownish-beige marble flooring. This level segues into a corridor where spacious boardrooms are plentiful and two restaurants lure with their respective charm: Schooners Monterey and, adjacent to it, the more formal Coastal Kitchen. The former has outdoor seating where customers are seated on the balcony deck where they can enjoy succulent plates of oysters, or other culinary creations, as they intermittently glance up at the magnificently marine expanse.
The indoor Coastal Kitchen, which has no shortage of sight lines into the Bay, is audaciously led by executive chef Michael Rotondo who, along with his cuisine dream team of waitstaff and sommeliers, has earned renown over the past three years with his spectacular multi-course tasting menus — each platter or bowl circumspectly paired with an accentuating wine.
This summer, Rotondo has fashioned an all-star collection of ambrosial, Michelin-caliber tastings (the menu changes approximately every three months), unfurling over two hours like a compelling narrative with a clear beginning, middle, and denouement accompanied by, of course, stately introductions. Whereas some may glean pleasure from anticipating the chapters of a novel or scenes of a film, Rotondo adeptly evokes a mélange of tastebuds, pushing and pulling his guests in suspenseful directions, totaling a thoroughly epicurean experience.
The alluring and toothsome journey commences with an amuse-bouche dish — a zesty Pacific Gold oyster over a cyan-dyed mound of salt, a goat cheese-onion fusion, and a squash blossom tempura, which presents a scintillatingly savory crunch to go with an energizing splash of citrus. This trio is duly complemented by dedicated sips of Domaine de la Taille Aux Loups — a curated French revelation.
The first course, a snap pea soup with tender crab and gilded with tongue tip-enticing parmesan foam, is hair-raisingly saporous, made even more piquant relative to the calculatingly muted Christophe Hoch Weiss Riesling it’s served with. The second offering, king salmon sprinkled with chives and adjoined by cucumber peels and Manila clams, alongside billowy milk bread with hearty house-made butter, is the epitome of climactic storytelling — each development being more gratifying than the last thanks to the rose water-reminiscent 2015 Viña Ijalba Tradición Familiar Blanco Reserva.
A Valpolicella, Italy-based wine, characterized by its smooth and soft tannins, lays the groundwork for the third installment: a sweet and scrumptious honey-glazed duck breast with blueberry au jus, potatoes, and roasted spinach. Heartily crispy along its edges and, with the ideal amount of sinewy chewiness on the inside, duck has never tasted so ripely heaven-sent.
The fourth delight, an impeccably textured braised short rib and masterfully treated Wagyu beef, garnished with corn, is boosted by a spicily robust Joan Giné red wine from the heart and hearth of Europe. Last, but not least, is the celebratory culmination of this mouth-watering excursion: a filling, but never cloying, slice of cheesecake further enriched by a Hungary-originated dessert libation, a palate-refreshing berry sorbet, and the jaunty crispness of strewn pistachio crumbles.
Splendorous victuals aside, the lower-lobby hallway ends at a special elevator where the luxuriant Vista Blue Spa can be accessed on the top (fifth) floor. Notwithstanding the award-winning spa, a gym, and a pair of hot tubs atop and directly parallel to the Bay are worthwhile amenities for individuals motivated by health, wellness, and rest.
The headlining attraction for any hotel, no matter how considerable its supplementary features, are the quality of its rooms. Framed by elegant curtains which can be pulled back to uncover an ethereal waterscape, the Monterey Plaza Hotel delivers extravagant optic stimuli in tandem with a commodious floorplan underscoring a stylish nobility perhaps inclusive of a walk-in closet, desk nook, and a glorious nightstand sporting complimentary Nespresso coffee. All this, and more, comprises a soothingly memorable getaway one will want to indefinitely reflect on and sooner, not later, return to.
Cover image caption: Pictured on the left is the lobby inside Portola Hotel & Spa, and on the right is the lobby of Monterey Plaza Hotel & Spa. Respective photos are courtesy of Portola Hotel & Spa at Monterey Bay and Monterey Plaza Hotel & Spa
Portola Hotel & Spa at Monterey Bay is located at Two Portola Plaza, Monterey, CA 93940. For further information on this hotel and to book a room, visit portolahotel.com.
Monterey Plaza Hotel & Spa is located at 400 Cannery Row, Monterey, CA 93940. For more details on this property and to book a room, visit montereyplazahotel.com.
